Tutorial: Changing the transmission fluid and filter on many Holden Commodore models (VS, VT, VX, VY) with the 4L60E Automatic Gearbox
Whew, that’s a long title. This tutorial is going to show you how to change the transmission fluid and filter on a VS, VT, VX and VY Commodore which has the 4L60E automatic gearbox. It could potentially be similar for different cars within the GM family which feature the same 4L60E gearbox but since I can’t guarantee that I’ll just say it’s for the Commodore. Please note some things may be different for the VT and newer as my car is a VS, so please keep that in mind.
First up I’ll list the things required:
- Transmission service kit: It’s important to get the right one, most if not all VS’s have the shallow sump and I’m about 80% sure that VT onwards have the deeper pan. I got the kit from Bursons so I recommend going there. The kit should include a filter (the variable part) and a gasket.
- Transmission fluid: Refer to the owners manual to see which one is right for you. I used Valvoline ATF DX-3.
- Rags: To clean inside the gearbox once the pan is removed.
- Socket set with extender: From memory they’re 13mm bolts, but it’s handy to have a set anyway.. the extender is definitely required because it’s hard to get to those bolts (exhaust gets in the way).
- Clothes you don’t care about: They WILL get dirty.
- Chassis Stands or Ramps: I don’t have chassic stands though I do have ramps so I used them; I’d recommend the chassis stands because with the ramps you have to get right under the car because the ramps get in the way.
- A large tray to put the old fluid in: As large as you can find, trust me (you’ll see why below).
- Someone to help: Not necessary (I didn’t have one) but it helps to have someone holding the sump up while you’re undoing the last bolts and later putting the first ones back in.
- A funnel: To pour the fluid in.
Removing the sump:
Now that everything’s ready the first thing to do is make sure the tray is under the gearbox sump. Start undoing the bolts (there’s 16 all up), but leave the corner bolts until last. Don’t be surprised if transmission fluid starts dripping or pouring (as happened to me) out of any side of the sump at any time while you’re undoing the bolts. With transmission fluid all over your hand and ratchet keep at it, then hit the last four bolts. If you have someone to help get them to hold it up (they’re hands will get dirty too but not as much as yours right now) and undo them. Place the sump on the ground being sure not to spill any old transmission fluid. Empty the sump and give it a clean up inside, if you take the magnet out then put it back where you found it.
New filter and replacing the sump:
At this point you should take the old filter out, just keep jiggling it downwards and it will come out (you may need to use a bit of force) and put the new filter in where the old one was then give what you can access in the gearbox a good wipe being careful of the wires (trying to remove as much old fluid as possible). Now put the gasket on the sump (I was told to use gasket goo but that advice came a bit late - no problems so far), it should only fit one way so if it doesn’t look like it’ll fit turn it upside down. Have your helper hold the sump up while you carefully put the bolts in making sure the gasket is lined up properly in all of the holes, or if you don’t have a helper start verbally abusing the car until you manage to get it lined up properly (it’s easier once the first bolt is in). Make the bolts tight but not too tight that you’ll damage the gasket. Once all 16 bolts are in nice and tight (but not too tight) we move on to the easiest part.
Put the transmission fluid in:
The transmission fluid goes in from the dipstick located in the engine bay, just stick the funnel in and pour 3 litres in as a safe starting point. Once this is done start the car and put the car into all gears, but don’t switch the car off yet. Stick the dipstick in and check the level, you’ll likely need to top up, so top it up and keep checking to make sure you dont’ overfill it. When the level on the dipstick is right we’re finished!
Some final thoughts: If you think your engine’s on fire - don’t worry it’s not. You probably spilled some transmission fluid on the exhaust which is causing all that smoke. But do have a look to make sure, because I won’t be held responsible if you ignore your car burning to the ground. I have also been told to check the bolts on the sump after a week to make sure they’re still tight.
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thanks, good tutorial. just a thought, to make it easier (especially if no helper available) use the vehicle jack with a piece of wood on top to hold the sump in place whilst undoing the bolts so it doesn’t come off all of a sudden. Same deal to hold it in place when putting the sump back in.
Ideally the container should be bigger than the entire sump to not make a swimming pool of ATF on the driveway (smells excellent too).
Alex’s suggestions are valuable and should be considered. Thanks Alex!